Instead of creating a lengthy list of resolutions this year, I’ve been focused on one big goal: At least one weekend trip per month, whether anyone else wants to go or not. “Weekend” is loose–I’ll settle for a 2-3 night getaway once per month (because sometimes the places I want to go are a little more reasonable on a Tuesday night).
Up first was a winter weekend spent at The Greenbrier–a destination that’s been on my bucket list for more than 20 years. Back when I was at Virginia Tech, a friend of mine. who was in the a capella group Juxtaposition, used to sing at The Greenbrier every New Year’s Eve. Ever since first hearing about America’s Resort in the Allegheny Mountains, I’ve always wanted to visit.
I embarked on my four-hour road trip west early on a Friday morning in late January. When I arrived at the resort just over the West Virginia border, I was able to check in early and take my luggage up to my room. As is my usual practice when traveling anywhere, I unpacked my impeccably planned mix of cold weather adventure layers and dressy evening clothes into the walk-in closet in my room.
The Greenbrier offers so many planned activities, and I brought along gear to do everything I planned, from outdoor ice skating to horseback riding in the mountains, from the gun club to the gym and the spa to fancy dinners and the casino in the evenings.
My first planned activity was the Bunker Tour, a 90-minute, camera-free, educational journey through the secret Cold War escape for Congress that was hidden in plain sight back in 1958. While the bunker was never used for its intended, it remained operational and was kept a secret successfully for more than 30 years until it came to light in the early 1990s.
Today, portions of the original bunker are still used for conferences and events, and some is even contracted out as a data center. These, coupled with public tours of this historical landmark, provide an ongoing source of revenue for The Greenbrier.
On my way to and from the Bunker Tour, I took in my first glimpses of the ornate and colorful designs of Dorothy Draper throughout the interiors of the hotel. Draper’s theme for The Greenbrier was “Romance & Rhododendrons”, a motif that is repeated throughout the hotel from the carpets to the draperies.
Photos don’t do The Greenbrier justice. I’ve seen many over the years, but nothing compares to the scale of these rooms or the layers of color and details until you’re immersed in it in person.
On my way back to my room, I stopped for a leisurely Afternoon Tea in the Upper Lobby, where I chatted with one woman who has been visiting the resort at least twice per year for the last 26 years!
After tea, I changed into my gym clothes to work out in the fitness center near the hotel’s indoor pool. Then I cleaned up for dinner at The Forum, an Italian restaurant located near the hotel’s shops downstairs. All of the restaurants I dined in were accommodating of my gluten-free preference. At The Forum, I enjoyed the Winter Salad, the House Pizza on gluten-free crust, and a Springhouse Spritz, which was a delightfully refreshing mocktail. I topped off my meal with an Americano, and then did some more exploring around the hotel.
The Greenbrier was pretty quiet while I was there, so the casino was pretty slow. I had visions of a buzzing evening at the craps table or playing poker, but my reality was more along the lines of winning $600 in a Wheel of Fortune slot machine, then losing $100 pretty quickly in four hands of Black Jack. Also, there is nothing less exciting than playing craps alone. 😂
But that’s okay. Early to bed, early to rise, and I was excited about my jam-packed Saturday I had planned.
I started my Saturday morning with a cup of coffee in the Upper Lobby and a prime seat next to the large fireplace with my Kindle. Then I hit up the Main Dining Room for breakfast before heading down to the pool area to check in for ice skating.
The Greenbrier has a decent-sized outdoor rink just outside the pool, and I was lucky enough to have the entire thing to myself for at least 30 minutes. There is nothing in the world like an outdoor rink, and I loved every moment of skating here. I brought along my own skates and plenty of layers to be out here skating when it was 17 degrees out.
My next activity was a shooting lesson at the Gun Club. It was so cold, I could barely feel my fingers, but thanks to my expert instructor, I was able to hit 10 sporting clays with my allotted 25 shells. I don’t know if that’s pretty good or what, but it was better than I thought I’d do my second time ever shooting a gun, so I’ll take it.
When we returned to the clubhouse, I was chatting with the next group heading out.
“First time here?” I asked.
“First time using a shotgun at all!” one of the guys replied.
“Same,” I said.
And he said, “Really? The way you’re dressed, I figured you come up here shooting every weekend!”
I laughed and explained, “I always aim to learn the activities my clothes were designed for. I coveted this jacket for 10 years. Now that I own it, it’d be a shame to never have filled the pockets with anything but my phone and the dog poop bags.” 😉
Back at the resort, I checked in with Kate’s Mountain Adventures to see about my scheduled afternoon trail ride. Unfortunately, due to the icy conditions, horseback riding was cancelled.
That was fine by me — I actually had my own run-in with the ice up at the Gun Club. I slipped on some ice up the steps to one of the stands, and I could feel my knee swelling up like a softball. The spa wasn’t far from where I was standing, and I managed to squeeze in a last-minute appointment for a soak in the healing waters of the White Sulphur Springs followed by a short massage.
Looking back, I wonder if there wasn’t something about that spring water after all. Those massive bruises healed up more quickly than any others I’ve had in the last 10 years, that’s for sure.
After a follow-up session in the sauna, a shower, and late afternoon nap with ice on my knee, I dressed up for dinner. But first, I had a tarot card reading! I’ve had my own tarot cards for years, but never had a professional do a reading for me. It was really fun — and gave me another opportunity to chat with a random person for a half hour, which is always welcome when I’m traveling alone.
I dined at Prime 44 West, where I indulged in one of the top 5 filet mignons I’ve ever eaten, along with a salad, some family-style sides, and a generous glass of wine. I finished up with crème brûlée for dessert, then roamed the casino floor, stopped in one of the lounges to listen to some jazz music, and spent a little while hanging out by the massive fireplace in the Upper Lobby before I retired back to my room for the night.
After an early breakfast the next morning, I closed out my visit with an Interior History Walking Tour. In contrast to the Bunker Tour, which focused on the resort’s history with the government, the Interior History tour homed in on the hotel’s history with Dorothy Draper, whose signature colorful design style covers every inch of The Greenbrier, from floor to ceiling in every room.
Dorothy Draper & Company has been the resort’s designer for more than 75 years and continues to provide services to the hotel today. Her theme of “Romance & Rhododendrons” is woven into The Greenbrier’s wallpaper, draperies, and even some of the carpets.
Fun fact: the chandelier in this Upper Lobby bar was used on the set of Gone With the Wind!
Then it was time to say goodbye. (For now.)
All in all, smashing success for my first weekend trip of 2025.
Next up: Palm Beach. Check back to see if I can manage to post about every single one. Planning them takes up so much time already! 🤪 But I’ll do my best.
